This One's for the Guys

After talking with a couple guy clients (few and far between!) I realized I had not done a post covering some general rules for them. So, if you are a guy that needs some style help or know one, read on....These tips will cover general fit. The "rules" on these are not terribly complicated. We'll start with jackets, excluding outerwear since it's almost May....jackets or blazers will usually almost fit most men. Vague huh? By that I mean that many times, a sleeve may need to be hemmed or the sides seams taken in a bit. Some dept. store employees can help you with this, look for a yellow or white tape measure around their neck, or ask if the store has a tailor. If you buy at say, TJ Maxx, you will need a tailor (they won't have one) to look at the fit. Shoulders shouldn't droop, sleeves should show about a 1/4 " of shirt sleeve, lapels should lay flat, no pulls or wrinkles across the shoulders and vents should not be pulled open, 1 vent for regular shaped/sized men, 2 for a fuller backside. Unless you will be layering a sweater regularly, stick to a slim cut that gently hugs, not restricts. This style will be fine with trousers or jeans, a looser blazer will always say casual. A midnight navy blazer or suit is always a good start and pay attention to details like fabric (no polyester!), stitching, lining, buttons etc. Single breasted is best and buy the best quality you can. Trousers/pants are next. Some of the same rules will always apply, pay attention to the details, they say quality. Your waist size is the measurement around your waist at the top of your hipbone, but let a tailor measure you and then remember it! The rise is the length of the fly, too long and your pants are up to high, too short and you have low riders. Not good. Inseam is length from crotch to cuff, again, let someone else measure it and remember it. Pants should fit snug but not tight at the waist right above your hipbone. Length should hit the top of your shoe with some crease (called the break), and about 1/2" to 1" up your shoe heel from the floor. We don't want to see your socks much when you walk. And a word about pleats, generally no. Unless you really need it in the stomach area or a tailor tells you the pants will drape better, no. You don't need too much fabric and they should fit like a jacket, skim the body. Right now, summer weight wool or a blend, cotton or a blend, is what you should be wearing. Jeans will have to wait for another post! Shirts are last. So much to decide, color, print, button-down, atheletic fit, etc. The same fit rule applies here also, the shirt should skim your body but not pull when seated or at the buttons, sleeves should fall in the crook between the base of your thumb and your wrist, when buttoned, 2 fingers should fit between your neck and the collar, tail needs to be long enough not to come untucked when seated (the untucked look is another post also!), big shoulders may need 2 pleats in the back, and on everyone the seams need to lay on the muscles right behind your shoulder (deltoids I'm told).Okay, that's alot of info to consider. Take it in and if you do go shopping, try and buy the best quality you can. As they say, you can spot a cheap suit a mile away! If you need help I am great at finding deals but keep in mind you will probably need to make friends with a tailor! See ya next time.... ps..spell check was out so please forgive mistakes!